Poised on a surfboard and dwarfed by a tower of water some 10 times her size, fear is one of the first emotions that big wave surfer Laura Crane feels before she hurtles down a 60-foot behemoth. “From ...

I remember the first neurologist I saw after my concussion,” Albee Layer said. “I told him, I’ve had many concussions surfing, and this one’s by far the worst. It happens in big waves. He’s like, ...

THE SURFER IS typically depicted as a solitary figure. One person flowing with the force of nature, nothing but a board between them and the violence below the surface of the sea. This image is even ...